Exploring the Galapagos (March 1999)

by Susan Corica

Travelers can visit this enchanted little archipelago in comfort aboard the Galapagos Explorer II.

EARLY SPANISH SAILORS CALLED THEM THR ENCANTADAS (THE ENCHANTED ISLANDS) AND THE ECUADORIAN GOVERNMENT officially named them the Columbus Archipelago, but they're best known as the Galapagos.
Charles Darwin described this volcanic group of some 60 Pacific islands and islets as "a little world within itself." Until recently, visiting this enchanted little world was a rugged adventure but travelers now tan sail around the Islands In luxury thanks to the latest venture from Ganodros S.A. - - the M/V Galapagos Explorer II.
Built In Italy in 1990, the ship previously sailed as the Renaissance II before being relaunched last year as possibly the most luxurious ship sailing the Galapagos.

Building loyalty
Canodros would like to build a certain customer loyalty among it’s clients. "People think of the Galapagos as a once-in-a-life-time destination, hut we want to get them to visit mice," said Canodros General Manager Andre E. Harona. "If you can get families to come with teenaged children, the children will bring their families back when they are adults."
Galapagos Explorer II has 52 air-conditioned outside cabins, each with a queen size or two twin beds, wood paneling, sitting area, marble bathroom, television, VCR, minibar, two safes and a satellite telephone.
Lunch is served buffet-style on the sun deck, with breakfast and dinner served in the air-conditioned dining room. Seating is open; drinks are complimentary, except for wine and champagne; dress is casual but no shorts or swimsuits are allowed at dinner.
To protect the islands' fragile eco-system, the ship purifies residua! water with ozone rather than chlorine before discharging it. She's also equipped with a special sewage treatment system to minimize environmental Impact. Shampoo, soap and detergents used on board arc all biodegradable. Fresh water is scarce on the islands so the ship has her own desalinization plant on board to provide safe, fresh drinking water. Bottled water is also available.

Ten islands in a week
Galapagos Explorer II sails a four-night voyage Saturday to Wednesday, starting from the island of San Cristobal, where passengers board by dinghy. The itinerary visits the islands of Banolome, Santiago, Isabela, Fernandina, tiny Rabida and Santa Cruz, before returning to San Cristobal, crossing the Equator four times in the process. A weekly three-night cruise goes from Wednesday to Saturday, starting and ending at San Cristobal, and visiting tiny Gardner, Espanola. Floreana and Santa Cruz.
The cost of the longer cruise ranges from $1,610 to $2,240 ppdo, with a single cabin at $2,200. The shorter cruise is from $1,155 to $1,600 ppdo, with a single cabin at $1.570. The two can be combined for a week-long voyage from $2,625 to $3,645 ppdo, with a single cabin at $3,575.
Children under 12 pay 50 percent, sharing a cabin with an adult. Children under age seven are not permitted on the voyages.
Airfare between the U.S. and Quito or Guayaquil, on mainland Ecuador, is not included. Passengers can fly into either city on Continental, American, Saeta or Ecuatoriana airlines and connect for the flight via San Airlines (the domestic arm of Saeta) to San Cristobal.
On board, wake-up calls come around 6:45 am. to allow lime for breakfast and preparations for a full daily schedule of excursions. Passengers are organized into groups of a dozen or so when going ashore. Naturalist guides explain the natural and human history of the islands. They caution you not to touch the sea lion pups that come right up to you on the sand, since their mothers identify them by scent, and to watch out not to step on the marine iguanas that lie motionless on the volcanic rocks.

Swim with penguins
At midday you return to the ship to escape the equatorial sun and have lunch, before going ashore again in the afternoon to explore a different beach or hike up a new hillside. In some places you can swim with penguins and sea turtles in aqua waters and snorkelers can view brilliantly-colored sea life below the surface.
After dinner, head naturalist Felipe Degel holds detailed briefings each evening on the next day's activities and the ship has a small library more in-depth study. Evenings are for live music and dancing in the lounge.
Canodros is represented in North America by Elegant Cruises & Tours. The company also manages the Kapawi Jungle Lodge, located on the mainland in remote Achuar Indian territory on a tributary of the Amazon River. The area is accessible only by boat and small aircraft. The eco-lodge- was completed in 1996 as a joint project between Canodros and the Achuar, under a unique agreement that will turn the entire project over to the Indians after 15 years. Elegant Cruise* & Tours, 800-683-6767,516-767-9302, Fax 516-767-9303; Worldwide Holidays/Galapagos, 800-J27-9S54, 305-665-0841, Fax 305-66M457