Abroad the Galapagos Explorer II (July 1999)

by Jeff Burdick

After a two-year absence from the Galapagos Islands cruise scene, Ecuadorian operator Canodros has returned in style with the former Renaissance 111, now the Galapagos Explorer H, the largest and most deluxe ship in the islands' 80-ship touring fleet.
Canodros purchased the vessel in 1997 from Renaissance Cruise Line and in February 1998 recommenced three-, four-and seven-night cruises.
Built in 1990, the 277-foot ship accommodates 100 passengers in 52 classically appointed berths. Bathrooms arc big enough for two, and showers twice the normal size. Most rooms include a small sitting area and couch, and desks feature lighted lift-up vanities. Because of its larger engine, the Galapagos Explorer If can also reach the chain's furthest islands overnight while smaller ships are confined to visits of more heavily trafficked inner islands.
All of the deluxe accoutrements of the ship's Renaissance pedigree remain: the lounge/dance hall, a tastefully decorated 100-seat dining room, and a leisurely bar and adjacent library/reading room. The ship also boasts an outdoor plunge pool and hot tub.
All said, the ship offers a four-star cruise experience. Under the strict preservation standards of the Galapagos Islands (a national ecological park and UNESCO World Heritage Site), ships cannot exceed 100 passengers. Almost all food is flown from the mainland, and no food (including packed day lunches) is allowed on shore in order to preserve the islands' delicate ecological balance.

Flora and fauna
The Galapagos are famed as the amazing living laboratory that inspired Charles Darwin's groundbreaking theories of evolution and natural selection. Thanks to their isolation 600 miles west of the Ecuadorian coast, these volcanic islands remain as untouched by man as anywhere in the world. Many plant and animal species can be found nowhere else, and visitors can approach extraordinarily close to the fearless wildlife.
In the water, I swam amid a small school of penguins (the only tropical penguin in the world). Sea lions and marine turtles also glided by. On land, it was unbelievable how close you could get to nesting finches, blue-footed boobies, and beach sunning seals, sea lions and black iguanas. Many species have also evolved exaggerated coloring instead of camouflage, such as the male frigate bird that can inflate a huge red sac to attract a mate.
The Galapagos Islands consists of 13 major islands, six smaller ones, and 42 islets. During my seven-night itinerary the Galapagos Explorer Il visited eight islands and one islet, sometimes visiting two in a day, broken up by lunch aboard ship during the sea passage. The four-night itinerary visited San Cristobal, Bartholome, Isabela, Fernandina. Rabida and Santa Cruz. The three-night itinerary followed with Lobos, Espaiiola, Floreana, and different visitor areas on San Cristobal and Santa Cruz.

Shore excursions
There were two shore excursions a day, a morning and an afternoon one, varying in length from two to four hours. These included hikes along the beach and up to volcano rims, skiff rides along rocky shorelines, snorkeling, and educational tours of the Charles Darwin Research Center on Santa Cruz and the Interpretation Center on San Cristobal.
Agents should portray the Galapagos Islands as a "soft" adventure destination. Skiff rides to island visitor areas involve both "dry" and "wet" landings. Wet landings require stripping shoes and socks and wading ashore, sometimes amid strong waves.
Because of tight national park preservation laws, no camping is allowed on the islands. All hikes must be led by a certified naturalist and are relegated to 52 approved visitation areas and paths on the various isles.
SAETA, Air Ecuadorian and Continental offer international routes into Guayaquil and Quito. Domestic airlines TAME and San-SAETA provide connections to Puerto Banquerizo Moreno Airport on San Cristobal where the Galapagos Explorer II. docks.

Ship Specs
Built: 1990. Size: 277 feet. Speed: 17 knots. Suites: five levels averaging from 210 sq. ft. for classic, up to 287 sq. ft. for renaissance balcony suites. Two single cabins.1999 Rates: three-night itinerary (Wed.-Sat.}, $1,155-$1600; four-night (Sat.-Wed.), $1,610-$2,240: seven-night
(Wed.-Wed. or Sat.-Sat.), $2,625-$3,645. Includes: Shore excursions, guide services, meals, most dinner drinks, all bar drinks, and $100 Galapagos National Park entrance fee.
Does not include: airfares, tips, cabin mini-bar, wine or champagne at dinner, snorkel rental, $25 airport departure tax.